About 100 years ago, Lord Lyons, bewhiskered, youngish ambassador from Britain, sent home a description of the city of Washington. "A terrible place for young men," he said. "Nothing whatever in the shape of amusement for them." No one doubts the accuracy of Lord Lyons' picture. Washington was just an overgrown village then. But could the present ambassador cable the same description now? Is the nation's capital still a hub by day and a dud by night? Like most questions in this federal town, these provoke more than one answer. Arguments usually follow two contrasting lines: 1. Washington is one of the world's dreariest capitals after dark. A few hours after midnight the only one you are likely to meet on the silent, black streets is a milkman or a mugger. 2. Washington is one of the world's great cultural, cosmopolitan centers. Great music, theater, jazz, night clubs, foreign restaurants, parties. There's enough amusement here for anyone. Where does the truth lie? Well, it is true that city laws tend to drive everyone home late at night...

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